A night at The Witchery by the Castle

Carrie Mitchell experiences an icon  of Edinburgh hospitality which more than  lives up to its reputation 

A night in The Witchery is hands down one of the most memorable, indulgent experiences of my life. Opening the door to my lavish suite is like stepping back in time – everything is decked out in the richest shades of red and green, there’s a romantic four-poster bed, roll top bath, heavy velvet drapes, hanging tapestries, antiques on every surface and a separate sitting room where a fat guestbook lies open by the fireplace, filled with praise from former guests (including one Ms Minogue who described the place as ‘the perfect lust den’).

Beloved by celebrities and critics alike, the gothic hotel by the castle has become famous for being the capital’s most romantic destination. Not only an Edinburgh institution, but an institution across the hospitality world once described as ‘one of the seven wonders of the hotel world’. However, if we’re being technical, it’s not actually a hotel at all.

Owned by James Thomson OBE, the official classification is a restaurant-with-rooms and when The Witchery by the Castle first opened its doors on Halloween 1979, it was to diners only. Such is the astounding success of the restaurant, Thomson has gone from a team of three to a team of almost 90, working across the original restaurant, an adjacent second dining room called The Secret Garden which opened in 1990, and nine sumptuous suites created for visitors who simply didn’t want their Witchery experience to end when their meal did.

I can understand their distress. After I’ve enjoyed a candlelit meal in the original restaurant – Oban oysters, Côte de boeuf of Ballindalloch beef and a bottle of punchy Malbec from the award-winning wine list (voted best in the country by AA in 2014, no less), you’d be hard pushed to get me to leave. The luxury is all too easy to get used to. Opulent interiors, first class service, the finest food and wine and an intimate atmosphere ensure guests feel like they’ve been admitted into a secret club allowing exclusive access to the dramatic den. But the best news is this club is actually open to everybody and it’s only getting bigger and better.

This year, construction will begin on a 10th suite which is set to be Edinburgh’s largest and highest hotel room – twice the size of a standard suite and four storeys up. Formerly the private rooms of James Thomson, the palatial suite will offer an unbeatable 360-degree panorama of the city. Looking across the dramatic cityscape, you can certainly see where Thomson found his inspiration.  

Room rates from £365 at The Witchery by the Castle, Castlehill. To find out more call 0131 225 5613 or visit thewitchery.com